[The Taushubetsu River Bridge] 20 Years Chasing a Phantom—Photographer Ryoji Iwasaki’s Journey

Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

A Morning Encounter with the “Floating Arch”

On a crisp early summer morning in Tokachi, we head to a forest road by Lake Nukabira at 9 a.m. Leading the way, Ryoji Iwasaki occasionally pauses to click his shutter.

“First-timers often miss the bridge. They reach the lakeshore without realizing the vertical concrete slabs seen from above are part of the bridge.” (Iwasaki)

It’s only after he points it out that we notice—the path we’ve walked was once a railway line. The bridge ahead is deteriorating, stripped of its upper structure. “Many expect to see the arch bridge from posters, so they don’t realize they’ve already reached the edge of it.”

Indeed, as the trees clear, we see the weathered gray-brown concrete stretching toward the lake—this is the Taushubetsu River Bridge. In early June, the water level is a bit high, revealing about 70% of the arch.

Along the way, we spot a deer and fawn peeking out. We follow their tracks through the forest to find the bridge, now a “floating sculpture” long since retired. Iwasaki doesn’t even use his viewfinder—he just traces the arch with his eyes.

Why the Taushubetsu Bridge is Called a “Phantom”

• Former Shihoro Line Taushubetsu River Bridge (completed in 1937)
• Abandoned underwater after track relocation during Nukabira Dam construction
• Submerges and resurfaces seasonally—fully visible during thaw, partly submerged in summer, shrouded in autumn mist

This irregular appearance is so dramatic that local guides call it the “Eight Scenic Phases of the Seasons.” However, due to ongoing concrete deterioration, experts warn the bridge could collapse at any time.

“Even 20 years ago, locals would say, ‘It’ll collapse in three years.’ I started photographing it just to document its last years. But the bridge was sturdier than I expected. Now I joke that the finish line keeps moving further away,” Iwasaki says. “For the past decade, I’ve been saying ‘this might be the last year.’”

Shot on: June 4, 2007 – Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

Shot on: June 2, 2025 – Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

Why Ryoji Iwasaki Continues to Chase the “Phantom”

A Chance Move in 2005

After graduating from Rikkyo University, Iwasaki spent about three years wandering Japan, saving money through part-time jobs. “I even did the Shikoku pilgrimage on a scooter,” he recalls. In the early 2000s, he was invited to work at a pension in Nukabira (now Nukabira Onsenkyo), Kamishihoro—and decided to settle in Tokachi.

“At the time, it was the so-called ‘employment ice age,’ and I had no real direction. I asked a seasoned pilgrim I met—on his 13th round of the Shikoku route—‘Will I find something through traveling?’ He replied, ‘I’m still traveling because I haven’t.’ That’s when I decided to stop wandering and try settling down in Hokkaido,” says Iwasaki.

Today, the Taushubetsu River Bridge draws many visitors under the banner of the ‘phantom bridge.’ But back then, it was just a crumbling relic, almost forgotten.

“Locals used to say, ‘It’ll collapse in a few years.’ That’s when I thought, ‘Someone needs to record it now.’ I didn’t even know any photographers at the time. So I figured, if I’m living nearby, I’ll take on the job myself.” (Iwasaki)

As mentioned, he originally planned to document the bridge for three years until it collapsed—but it’s still standing.

“I taught myself photography. As I kept shooting, work as a photographer started coming in, and it gradually became my livelihood. I get busy sometimes, but I still visit the bridge two or three times a week. The scenery, and the bridge itself, are constantly changing—it’s hard to get tired of it.”

Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

Reflections After 20 Years of Shooting

“When I first started, I saw it as a project to record its collapse. But as I kept returning and reflecting on the bridge’s history, I realized—‘This bridge isn’t ending through destruction; it’s slowly returning to the land.’ It was made with materials sourced from the area, after all.” (Iwasaki)

Cracks and crumbling sections mark the surface of the piers. Yet in winter, when the lake freezes and snow piles up, the bridge blends into the scenery as if it were part of a sculpture. During the spring thaw, it reflects perfectly in the water. In summer, it submerges partially, seeming to commune with the fresh greenery.

Not Just a Documenter, But a Companion

“Continuing to photograph the bridge has changed not just the bridge, but my life as well. I’ve been interviewed, recognized as a storyteller, and now get photography jobs. I even published photo books. All these things happened because I kept shooting the Taushubetsu Bridge. Someday, the bridge will collapse—but I don’t want to be the first to witness it. Not because it would make me sad, but because people might think I destroyed it myself.” (Iwasaki)

Let’s Walk! The Best Seasons for Viewing and Photography

“In recent years, visitor numbers have increased, so permission is now required to approach the bridge. It’s within a national park, so I hope people enjoy not only the bridge but the surrounding natural environment as well. Even if the bridge is gone, the scenery here is quintessentially Hokkaido.” (Iwasaki)

Three Routes to the Bridge (2025 Update)

1. From the Taushubetsu Observation Deck (Route 273)
   • Approx. 750m away. Free access all year round.
2. Paid guided tours by NPO Higashi-Taisetsu Nature Guide Center
   • In summer, forest road restrictions make this the safest and shortest route. Reservations recommended.
   • In winter, guided tours cross the frozen lake.
3. Drive in via forest road after borrowing a gate key from Michi-no-Eki Kamishihoro
   • Online reservation required. Closed in winter. 4WD recommended. Enter at your own risk.

“The area around the bridge is bear territory. Cell service is unavailable, and the forest roads are unpaved. If you’re visiting for the first time, I highly recommend joining a guided tour.” (Iwasaki)

A Conversation About What Comes After the Collapse

While walking along the lakeshore, Iwasaki stops and points to part of the arch. “In recent years, especially during the spring thaw, walls have crumbled from the bridge every year. The time left to see the full arch structure may be very short.”

A Vision for After the Collapse—Capturing Time Itself

“My original goal was to document the bridge’s final form. So in a way, once it collapses, that might be when my real work begins. I’ve accumulated footage and photos I haven’t released yet. I want to share them soon, but at the same time, I hope the collapse holds off a little longer. It’s a strange dilemma.” (Iwasaki)

There’s Still a Reason to Visit, Even After It Falls

On a clear June morning in Tokachi, a double arch floats on the lake’s surface. As the sun begins to set, the shadows fade into the water. The “phantom” that Ryoji Iwasaki has followed for 20 years continues to stretch time for its viewers, even as it edges toward its inevitable collapse.

The Taushubetsu River Bridge is not just an abandoned structure—it’s a giant camera obscura crafted by wind, water, and light. It etches a reel of memories into the minds of those who come to see it.

“Once the bridge collapses, that chapter of my work will close. But I believe a new chapter will begin, not an end, but a continuation.”

When you visit the bridge, your breath will synchronize with the pulse of the lake, and your eyes will carry forward the moment Iwasaki’s lens captured. Until the day it falls—or even after—the Taushubetsu River Bridge will continue to give us a reason to return.

The photo book “Zoku Taushubetsu River Bridge” is available for purchase below.

北海道新聞通販ショップ トップページ

北海道新聞社が運営するECサイト。過去の北海道新聞紙面（バックナンバー）をはじめ、北海道新聞社が発行する本、厳選した北海道産グルメなどを販売。

PROFILE

Tourism Information (2025 Edition)

MATOKA Taushubetsu Travel Plan

* The Taushubetsu River Bridge travel plan is based on the key rental hours at the roadside station (9:00 AM to 4:30 PM) or the guided tour schedule.

Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

“It’s not the easiest place to get to, and we don’t know how long the bridge will last. That’s why I generally recommend not overplanning—just go when the chance arises.” (Iwasaki)

“This bridge could collapse at any time, so even a casual snapshot might become a valuable historical record.” (Iwasaki)

Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki[/caption>

Taushubetsu Sightseeing & Accommodation Information

* For forest road gate key reservations, search for “Taushubetsu River Bridge Key Reservation Site“.
Photo by Ryoji Iwasaki

You can purchase the photo book “Zoku Taushubetsu River Bridge” at the link below.

北海道新聞通販ショップ トップページ

北海道新聞社が運営するECサイト。過去の北海道新聞紙面（バックナンバー）をはじめ、北海道新聞社が発行する本、厳選した北海道産グルメなどを販売。